The Perpetual Calendar Reimagined by MB&F

I first met Max Büsser at a GTE, where he was presenting his Legacy Machine No.1. What strikes you immediately about him is the passion that drives him: a passion for fine watchmaking, creativity, innovation, and a love of work done properly. Max Büsser was travelling in Singapore during this presentation, but that passion I mentioned is shared by his entire team.

From the moment you step into MB&F at the M.A.D Gallery, time seems to stretch. You swing between childlike wonder at levitating mobiles and admiration for the brand’s timepieces.

In short, a fully realised concept and perfect coherence, backed up by a passionate team that knows how to convey the spirit of this extraordinary brand.

Let’s talk a little about this famous New Legacy Machine. What a pleasant surprise it was to be introduced to the “Legacy Machine Perpetual”, which, as its name suggests, is a perpetual calendar. But be warned: at MB&F, conventions are not exactly cherished, and the brand’s DNA is more present than ever in this out-of-the-ordinary timepiece.

For me, as for many others who work in or take an interest in watchmaking, a perpetual calendar consists of an additional module added to a “classic” movement. Other constructions exist, but the majority of perpetual calendars sold are based on this approach.

This “classic” construction is characterised by a large central rocker—also known as a multiple lever—acting every day on the various star wheels indicating the day, month, and date.

At MB&F, the perpetual calendar is reinvented by removing this large rocker and replacing it with a “mechanical processor”. Without going into detail, it’s a kind of wheel made up of a stack of discs, all independent of one another, whose role is to transmit force to the various star wheels at the right moment. The patent for this mechanical processor is currently pending.

For this mad project, as is their habit, MB&F collaborated with a watchmaking prodigy: Stephen McDonnell.

Max and Stephen have known each other for a long time. Back in the early days of MB&F, he provided a little technical help that enabled the brand to finalise one of its first projects.

Stephen McDonnell has always been interested in watchmaking, but Northern Ireland is not a country with watchmaking traditions. Keeping this passion as a hobby, he began studying theology at Oxford, but his addiction to the mechanics of time caught up with him. He left his native Ireland for Switzerland, where he undertook various courses before becoming an instructor himself at WOSTEP in Neuchâtel.

He quickly became interested in—and trained in—movement design and construction. His abilities, tenacity and passion soon made him a talented prototypist, mastering every stage of developing a complication.

So, the presentation is over; now it’s time to get down to business and see the beast.

Two versions: one in 950 platinum and another in 5N+ rose gold, the “+” being an addition of palladium intended to protect against oxidation over time.

With only two finished models, and Max Büsser in Singapore with the platinum version, we were treated to the rose-gold model.

There it is at last. What hits you straight away when you see it are its dimensions: a 44mm diameter makes it a watch you can wear every day. Its weight and thickness point in the same direction, making it a “discreet” timekeeping instrument compared with other pieces from the brand.

Up close, this “openworked” perpetual calendar is a little marvel: the various sub-dials seem to float between the crystal and the movement. The balance with inertia blocks and its Breguet overcoil beats like a heart at the centre of this jewel at 18,000 vibrations per hour—leaving plenty of time to admire the breathing of the hairspring.

One of the distinctive features of this balance-and-spring assembly lies in the balance staff. Given that the escapement sits on the back of the movement (bridge side), the staff measures 16mm in length—enormous, and rarely seen in a modern construction.

A case with classic lines leaves the complication entirely in the spotlight. A true mechanical spectacle too often hidden behind a dial.

Four small correctors, like mini pushers, allow the wearer to make adjustments directly with their fingers, without having to resort to a tool that could scratch the case.

One of the innovations of this Legacy Machine Perpetual lies in an ingenious mechanism that disables the correctors at precisely the moments when they must not be used (during date changes).

It was part of the project brief: to avoid the boomerang watch—an image used to describe the watch that comes back to after-sales service. Which is often the case with traditional perpetual calendars, very frequently due to incorrect handling.

This system greatly reduces the risk of breakage.

A 72-hour power reserve, but closer to 100 hours thanks to two barrels. This power reserve is displayed on the dial side, as are the leap-year indication, a day counter, month, date, and at 12 o’clock a time sub-dial only slightly larger than the others. It’s true that when you look at this machine, you almost forget that its primary function is to tell the time.

As for the movement finishing, it remains entirely consistent with the exceptional nature of the piece. Magnificent satin-brushing on the minute bridges with hand-applied anglage. On the back, same story, with a more classic approach to decoration: beautiful Geneva stripes on bridges with hand anglage, gold chatons for the jewels, and hand engraving. The result is superb—very modern on the dial side and more traditional on the back of the piece.

This piece truly won us all over, for its innovations and its style—modern, yet still preserving the codes of Swiss haute horlogerie.

MB&F gives the perpetual calendar a serious shot of youth by making it sexy and desirable. In a rather gloomy watchmaking climate, the enthusiasm emanating from this beautifully accomplished project is a real morale boost. As JC Biver said at the GPHG last month: “watchmaking needs creativity; it’s the key to reinventing itself.” On that level, it’s fair to say MB&F excels.

Another great success for MB&F.