This Cult 1960s Watch Is Back in the Spotlight — and Collectors Can’t Get Enough of It

Designed by a young Gérald Genta for Universal Genève, the Polerouter has left its mark on watchmaking history. Long forgotten, it is now being rediscovered by enthusiasts, carried by the vintage wave and the search for authenticity. Here’s why this watch is becoming a must-have once again.

An icon born in watchmaking’s golden age

In the mid-1950s, Universal Genève launched the Polerouter, a watch conceived by Gérald Genta when he was just 23.
Created for the pilots of Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) flying over the North Pole, it celebrated Swiss precision and a taste for travel.
In the 1960s, its elegant design and micro-rotor movement made it a symbol of functional elegance.

The Polerouter embodies an era when the mechanical watch was both tool and jewel.

The allure of true vintage

A domed dial, dauphine hands, a winged logo: every detail tells the story of a bygone era.
Today, collectors value the unique patina of each example and the robustness of its Universal 215 calibre.
This authenticity—far removed from modern industrial production—appeals to a new generation of enthusiasts.

Prices rising fast

The vintage market has breathed new life into the Polerouter:

• steel versions in good condition trade at around €1,200 to €2,000,
• De Luxe or gold-plated versions often exceed €3,000,
• rare models signed “Genta” or “Sub” can reach €5,000 and beyond.

These figures come from recent sales on Chrono24, forums, and specialist auction houses.

A legacy that inspires today’s brands

Contemporary houses such as Baltic, Serica or Christopher Ward clearly draw inspiration from the Polerouter: slimness, restraint, domed dials, retro charm.
In a world saturated with screens, this mechanical simplicity represents a return to essentials.

“The Polerouter is a watch that doesn’t try to impress, but to last,” sums up a Geneva-based collector.

In summary

Born in the 1950s and a star of the 1960s, the Polerouter moves through time without losing any of its beauty.
Balancing elegance, history and relative accessibility, it proves that a watch doesn’t need to be modern to captivate—you simply need it to have a soul.

A small confession: the brand is enjoying a revival under the banner of another very major brand whose name begins with a B.