SP One: The Time for Elegant Restraint at MB&F

MB&F, famed for its radical horological machines, is once again shaking up the rulebook. With the SP One, the first release in the new Special Projects collection, the Swiss house presents a watch that blends discretion with mechanical daring in an unprecedented 38 mm format. A creation that is both refined and resolutely unconventional.

An intention of restraint… with no compromise on innovation

To mark its 20th anniversary, MB&F returns to the roots of its creativity, revisiting an earlier project that had been sitting in a drawer since 2018. The result? A watch that doesn’t seek to shine through exuberance, but through the finesse of its details and the complexity concealed behind an apparent simplicity.

The SP One answers an unusual question for the brand: “What if MB&F created an elegant, classic watch?” A paradox embraced—beautifully embodied in a piece that strikes a perfect balance between sophistication and technical audacity.

A suspended architecture: the miracle of three circles

The original concept, dubbed “Three Circles”, is built around a levitating mechanical trinity: the barrel, the balance wheel and the tilted dial. Thanks to sapphire crystals on both the front and back, these elements appear to float at the centre of a miniature amphitheatre. The result is hypnotic: gravity seems to be abolished on the wrist.

An in-house movement signed MB&F

• 191 components and 31 jewels
• Balance wheel at 2 o’clock like a flying saucer
• 72-hour power reserve thanks to a single suspended barrel
• Tilted dial at 6 o’clock, black DLC-treated, showcasing expertise in bevel gearing

This three-dimensional construction isn’t merely aesthetic. It makes a watch’s mechanics intelligible to non-initiates, while celebrating craftsmanship through exceptional hand-finishing: polished inward angles, satin-brushed surfaces, microblasted textures, hand engravings…

A pebble of gold or platinum

The case, 38 mm in diameter and 12 mm thick, evokes a perfectly polished pebble. Bezel-less, with suspended lugs, it hugs the wrist like an object from elsewhere. A UFO with a silky feel, whose elegance stands apart from MB&F’s usual standards.

Two limited editions available

• 18K rose gold with an anthracite flange – CHF 58’000 (around €62,000) + VAT
• 950 platinum with a sky-blue flange – CHF 63’000 (around €67,500) + VAT

Both versions are delivered with a calfskin strap and a matching gold buckle. The ensemble offers a highly desirable piece for collectors in search of originality under control.

A tribute to creative freedom

As Maximilian Büsser, founder of MB&F, points out, “success can be toxic.” With the SP One, the brand asserts its right to the unpredictable, revisiting its DNA in a new form. It’s not a classic watch; it’s an MB&F… classic in its own way.

A piece that, beneath its well-behaved looks, is a distillation of audacity and innovation. A work of mechanical art, designed to surprise and convey a unique emotion to its wearer.

FAQ

What is the price of the MB&F SP One?

The SP One is offered at €62,000 in rose gold and €67,500 in platinum, excluding taxes.

Is the SP One a limited edition?

MB&F has not specified the number of pieces produced, but like all of its creations, the SP One will likely be available in very limited quantities.

What is the SP One’s main innovation?

The apparent levitation of its three key components (barrel, balance wheel, dial), thanks to an ingenious construction and double-sided sapphire crystals.

Is it MB&F’s thinnest watch?

Yes, at just 12 mm thick, but the goal was balance, not record-breaking slimness.

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