How to Choose Your First Luxury Watch?

Treating yourself to a luxury watch—even if the term “luxury” is often overused—is a significant moment in the life of a watch enthusiast. It is not only the pleasure of acquiring an instrument that will stay with you, keeping time and brought to life by your movements (if you’ve opted for a mechanical watch), but also an investment: an asset whose dividends are the joy of seeing it on your wrist, and whose resale, if necessary, can prove advantageous. Here are a few tips to help you choose the perfect luxury watch for you.

The budget for a luxury watch

The first step in choosing your first luxury watch is to define your budget. Luxury watches can be very expensive, but there are also more affordable options. Determine the price range that fits your budget. If we really have to put figures on it, you can consider that from €1,500 you can start to get your hands on entry-level pieces with automatic men’s models; but if you want a model that can gain a little value, you’ll look towards new automatic watches in the €5,000 to €9,000 range as entry-level luxury.

However, luxury is a relative notion: it can be linked to price, marketing, rarity, or… quite simply to your own idea of what luxury is!

Think about how you’ll use it

Think about why you want to buy a luxury watch. Is it for everyday wear, for special occasions, or simply to own a beautiful collector’s piece? The answer to this question can help you choose the brand, model and functions that best suit your needs.

Research the brands

There are many luxury watch brands on the market, each with its own style, reputation and flagship models.

Research the brands, collections and models that catch your eye, looking at their history, build quality, design, materials, complications, as well as user reviews and feedback.

Flagship models

In most cases, each watch brand has one or two flagship collections—its “bread and butter”—that account for 80% of sales. The other collections are often “talking pieces” designed to generate media buzz, show that the brand innovates, or attempt to capture new markets.

When you mention Jaeger-LeCoultre, you think Reverso; Audemars Piguet suggests the Royal Oak; Omega and its Speedmaster; Tag Heuer and its Monaco; Rolex and its Submariner (thanks, James); Patek Philippe and the Nautilus, etc.

Which style?

Once you have an idea of the brand you want, think about the watch style that best suits your personality and lifestyle. Luxury watches come in different styles, from traditional to modern, from understated to flashy, from classic to sporty.

Pilot’s watches, dive watches, dress watches? Choose a style that matches your personal taste and complements your wardrobe.

Consider the complications

Luxury watches can feature a range of complications, from the simplest to the most complex, such as chronographs, perpetual calendars, moonphase indicators, minute repeaters, tourbillons and much more. Choose the complications that matter to you. Of course, your smartphone already does all of this and these complications no longer have any real practical use, but certain complications give a watch its character, shape the dial design, and are also feats of mechanical engineering: the motorsport vibe of a chronograph, the poetry of a moonphase, the extra hand of a GMT, the rotating bezel of a dive watch, etc.

Select the materials

Luxury watches can be made from a variety of materials, including gold, 316L steel, titanium, bronze, resin, wood, titanium, etc. Choose quality materials that reflect your style and personality. Materials can also affect the price of the watch. For example, a mineral crystal rather than sapphire is not an indicator of quality materials.

Luxury watches: new or pre-owned?

The pre-owned luxury watch market offers a great opportunity to acquire a watch at a more accessible price. Favour official channels rather than listings on LeBonCoin, and insist on all paperwork certifying the authenticity of the timepiece—especially if you want to buy, for example, a pre-owned Patek Philippe watch.

On the other hand, the pre-owned market can also hold surprises. So if you want to treat yourself to a cheap Rolex, be aware that pre-owned will be more expensive than the same watch new! In a boutique, you might find a Submariner at €7,000 new and the same model pre-owned at €11,500. The reason? The new one will be available in a year and a half, whereas the pre-owned one is available immediately.

Try before you buy

Before buying a luxury watch, it’s important to try it on to make sure it suits your wrist and is comfortable to wear. Ideally, try the watch in person at an authorised retailer or a luxury watch store. The customer experience is also part of the pleasure of buying the watch.

Check the warranty and after-sales service

Be sure to check the details of the watch’s warranty before buying. Luxury watch brands generally offer a one- to two-year warranty covering repairs and replacements in the event of manufacturing defects. Also check the after-sales services offered by the brand, such as maintenance and repairs. Service bills can be high—this is a cost to factor in.

Take resale value into account

While buying a luxury watch is an investment for you, it’s also important to consider its resale value. Some luxury watch brands hold their value better than others, depending on their history, rarity and build quality. If you plan to resell your watch in the future, consider investing in a luxury watch brand that retains its value well. Visit pre-owned watch sales sites to check market prices.

Trust your instinct

Ultimately, choosing a luxury watch should reflect your personality and personal style. If you’ve found a watch that speaks to you and meets all your criteria, it’s time to trust your instinct and buy it.

A few brand and model ideas

1- Accessible

Frederique Constant and Alpina, Hamilton, Seiko (excellent value for money), Longines, Tissot, Tudor (Rolex’s little sister), Bell & Ross or another French brand such as Charlie men’s watches.

2- Accessible outsiders

Code41, BA111OD (a tourbillon for €5,000!), SevenFriday, M.A.D. EDITIONS, etc.

3- Beyond

Omega, Breitling, Tag Heuer, Panerai, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Hublot, Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Cartier, Piaget, Mont Blanc, MB&F, etc.

4- In the stratosphere …

Richard Mille, Greubel Forsey, Jacob & Co., A. Lange & Söhne, etc.