Eberhard & Co. Chronograph 1887: A Tribute to Time and the History of Aviation
At Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024, Swiss watchmaker Eberhard & Co. unveiled two new timepieces that expand its 1887 collection: the 1887 Chronograph Limited Edition with manual winding and the 1887 Automatic Chronograph. Celebrating the brand’s origins and its historic ties to aviation, these models stand out for their elegant design and outstanding watchmaking performance, deeply rooted in the rich Eberhard & Co history.
A historic inspiration for a timeless design
The 1887 collection, launched in 2019 to mark the year the Maison was founded, takes its cues from chronographs of the 1930s and 1940s. The new creations reprise signature elements such as the vintage crown with coaxial pusher, telemeter and tachymeter scales, along with richly detailed dials.
The stainless-steel cases, measuring 41.5 mm in diameter, combine polished and satin-brushed finishes for a refined aesthetic. The domed sapphire crystal, treated with anti-reflective coating, ensures perfect legibility. These watches are designed to appeal to contemporary watch enthusiasts while paying tribute to history.
Two exclusive calibres
Both models are powered by exclusive calibres developed by Eberhard & Co. in collaboration with the AMT manufacture:
- The 1887 Chronograph Limited Edition (ref. 31081) is driven by the EB 280 calibre, a hand-wound mechanical movement. The upper bridge, shaped like a shield, depicts the Maison’s emblem—a symbol of strength and authenticity. Featuring a blued column wheel and a flyback complication, this movement delivers exceptional mechanics and aesthetics. Limited to just 250 pieces, it is aimed at collectors in search of truly exclusive watches.
- The 1887 Automatic Chronograph (ref. 31082) features the EB 380 calibre, an automatic movement with a flyback complication. Its oscillating weight is decorated with Geneva stripes and a 4N gold engraving, further enhancing the model’s elegance.
An evocative flyback complication
The flyback function—also known as “retour en vol”—allows the chronograph to be reset without stopping it, an indispensable asset for pilots during complex missions. Introduced by Eberhard & Co. in the 1930s, this complication underscores the Maison’s strong connection to aviation history.
Feats such as the secret Rome–Tokyo flight of 1942 and collaborations with Italian air forces bear witness to this heritage. These new watches celebrate that pioneering spirit while incorporating modern technological advances.
A limited edition and a range of finishes
The 1887 Chronograph Limited Edition stands out with a dial available in several finishes: eggshell white, semi-matte black, or bronze with silver-toned details. The dials feature precise scales and raised polished indexes, creating a striking contrast with the engraved steel caseback and sapphire crystal.
The 1887 Automatic Chronograph, meanwhile, offers dials with finishes such as the Clous de Paris pattern or elegant colours like blue or silver-toned. Every detail—from the lozenge-shaped hands to the azuré sub-dials—reflects the Maison’s expertise and savoir-faire.
A watch for aviation and history enthusiasts
With water resistance to 50 metres, these chronographs combine practicality and elegance. The black or brown alligator straps, fitted with personalised buckles, add a touch of sophistication. Both models pay tribute to history while remaining resolutely modern—ideal for watch and aviation enthusiasts alike.
Technical specifications of the 1887 Chronograph
- EB 280 calibre (manual) or EB 380 (automatic)
- Blued column wheel and flyback complication
- 48-hour power reserve
- Case: stainless steel, 41.5 mm
- Dials: multiple finishing and colour options
- Water resistance: 50 metres
- Crystal: domed sapphire with anti-reflective treatment
- Strap: alligator with steel buckle
- Price: from €7,800
