The 10 Most Sought-After Watches on the Pre-Owned Market

On the pre-owned market, certain watches set the pace. They’re passed on, scrutinised, coveted. At the crossroads of watch culture, iconic design and carefully managed scarcity, these pieces draw a clear line between collecting passion and informed investment. A dive into this shifting pantheon where time is traded down to the second.

Why these watches dominate the pre-owned market

At a time when supply is booming and prices are normalising after the post-2020 euphoria, ten models continue to command attention. They all tick the same trio of boxes: a strong narrative (space, racing, the sea), an instantly recognisable aesthetic signature, and desirability sustained by international demand. In short, the ideal formula for collecting and, at times, a measured investment.

The Top 10 most sought-after watches

Rolex Submariner

From James Bond’s 6538 to today’s 124060, the Submariner remains the archetype of the chic diver. Legibility, well-judged proportions, water resistance: a tool that became a symbol. On the pre-owned market, it blends utilitarian charm with status-driven aura.

• Why it appeals: timeless icon, versatile, highly liquid.
• What to watch for: repeated polishing, period dials and inserts.

Rolex Daytona

Born for the track, turned into a collecting myth — with a special mention for vintage “Paul Newman” examples. Recent ceramic references (116500LN, 126500LN) remain trophies on the secondary market, balancing precision and prestige.

• Why it appeals: sporting aura, relative scarcity, grail status.
• What to watch for: case/papers consistency, bracelet link condition, volatile pricing.

Rolex GMT-Master II

Designed for Pan Am, the GMT tells the story of travel’s golden age. The two-tone “Pepsi” (BLRO) and “Batman” (BLNR) bezels embody that transatlantic chic. Pre-owned, it’s a dependable classic for anyone who likes beauty with purpose.

• Why it appeals: dual-time function, cult colourways.
• What to watch for: water resistance, bezel play, insert alignment.

Patek Philippe Nautilus

Gérald Genta’s porthole. The 5711 has bowed out, but its shadow looms over the entire “integrated” category. Horizontal dial layout, slim case, bracelet comfort: the Nautilus remains the ultimate fantasy for many collectors.

• Why it appeals: legendary design, low production, long-term value.
• What to watch for: original papers, bracelet condition, Patek servicing.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

The 1972 masterstroke: steel treated like jewellery. From the Jumbo 15202 to the 15510, the Royal Oak pairs a “Tapisserie” dial, satin-brushed edges and sculptural presence. On the secondary market, its magnetism hasn’t waned.

• Why it appeals: contemporary haute horlogerie, signature design.
• What to watch for: the polished/brushed alternation, link wear, dial authenticity.

Omega Speedmaster Professional

The only one to have walked on the Moon. The Speedmaster transcends trends, whether in Hesalite or sapphire, with calibre 1861 or 3861. Its appeal: a rock-solid story and a gentler entry point on the pre-owned market.

• Why it appeals: NASA storytelling, legibility, huge choice of references.
• What to watch for: hands/dials with refreshed Super-LumiNova, tachymeter bezel, service history.

Cartier Tank

From the trenches to the modern belle époque. The Tank is Parisian elegance distilled: elongated brancards, Roman numerals, chemin de fer minute track. Must, Louis or Américaine versions appeal to a broad audience, spanning vintage and contemporary tastes.

• Why it appeals: cross-generational style, timeless codes, effortlessly dressy.
• What to watch for: worn plating on Must models, cabochon, cracked dials.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty‑Eight

Neo-vintage done right. Compact size, a sixties vibe, manufacture calibre: the BB58 won over a generation. Pre-owned, it combines everyday enjoyment with a compelling quality-to-price ratio for a first collection.

• Why it appeals: wearability, reliability, colour identities (Navy, Bronze).
• What to watch for: water resistance, bezel play, wear on steel/fabric straps.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas

The third way in sport-chic. Exquisite finishing, an interchangeable strap system, an in-house movement. The Overseas 4500V has established itself as a highly desirable alternative on the pre-owned market.

• Why it appeals: understated refinement, three-strap versatility.
• What to watch for: micro-scratches on polished surfaces, full set.

Richard Mille (RM 011 and the like)

High technology worn on the wrist. Tonneau cases, composite materials, F1 influences: RM created its own grammar. On the secondary market, demand remains strong for the sportier series, despite vertiginous prices.

• Why it appeals: performance image, innovative materials, limited editions.
• What to watch for: impeccable provenance, condition of screws and case, original parts.

Collecting or investing: buying well on the pre-owned market

The line is a fine one. For a living collection, prioritise emotion and wearability: a watch that’s worn is a watch that’s loved. For a sensible investment, stay focused on quality and liquidity.

• Prioritise condition and coherence: dial, hands, insert, bracelet.
• Demand a history: invoices, services, serial numbers, full set.
• Watch the market: price indices, cycles, dispersion by reference.
• Be patient: post-bubble corrections create opportunities.
• Don’t overlook costs: servicing, insurance, restoration.

Current trends in the pre-owned market

After the speculative peak, the mood is one of selectivity. Solid icons are holding their ground, certain references are being rediscovered (Cartier, Vacheron), and discreet good taste is back in favour. Diversity is gaining: less flash, more substance. For those who collect with curiosity — and invest with restraint — the pre-owned market may never have been so inspiring.